I Like T☺ Surf
In my own time, I like to go to the beach to go surfing, with my siblings and my friends. We go to the KBC (Kahuna board club) surf club, or BBC in westport and hop into a wetsuit and grab a board. We climb down rocks and to get to the water, which is quite a struggle with a board under your arm. We hop in the water a start to paddle in the deep sea when one of us spies a monster wave coming we’ll cry out “PADILE,” or “TURN AROUND!”
To catch the wave big or small, you have to paddle close to use your surfboard until you're on the wave. You can stop paddling when you're on the wave when the wave is taking you in. Once the wave is on its way to shore, I get off my tummy and stand up on my feet, if not, I jump off my surfboard straight in the deep abyss sea. Since I wear a wetsuit, it's never cold. Not one little bit. It's easier to catch the wave when it's broken. Surfing is totally awesome.
When I catch a wave I don’t always master it, I also fall off and get wiped out. Doing fails and getting smashed is still fun, even when you hit your head (mostly). Once I tried to paddle over a big wave that was broken, it pushed me down. That wipe out was not fun at all. I swallowed water and hit my head. The more of my friends go out with me the more fun it is to be out in on a surfboard.
My surfboard it a 6.10, with a green top and a tora symbol on it. It has 3 black fins on it. It can fit five fins though. This board is really good. I also use a soft top board with 2 pro teck fins red and whitey orangey colored spikes going around the words pro teck. The deck is blue, white, and a bit of red on it. Both of them are not fiberglass. My favourite surfboard to use is the 6.10 tora surfboard. Its easy to catch waves.
On rainy days the water level rises a lot so the waves get bigger then what they do on a sunny day. At the KBC surf club if there is not a wave to be seen, then the people that come to the club, go padil around the bar into the thirds. The thirds is deep as, and there is monster waves on rainy days. On sunny days the water is almost flat,but it's still an abyss. There is still little waves near shore. The thirds is really salty.
The people that usually come out are Lofa, Mark, Miko, Kieran, Bradley, Rubin Lee, Rubin Campbell, Brodie, Connor Peter Bradley Key, Leo Bradley and Kyle Bradley Key.
Lofa is a pretty good surfer. He is a Samoan legend. A heavy wave fell on his board and it snapped. Mark is Lofas younger brother. He can do a flip of his board into the water. Kierans my brother. He's not that great of a surfer. He sits there waiting for a big wave, but when the good waves come, he gets scared and doesn't catch them. Bradley is kieran's mate. He's pretty good at surfing for a person that just started. Hes better than kieran. Reuben Lee comes out all the time now. When he falls off he starts to laugh sometimes. Rubin Campbell is short. He always comes to the club, but I never see him come out. I've only seen him come out a couple times. Brodie is pretty good. I don’t know how because he is tall. The taller you are the harder it is to surf. Now it's time for the three brothers Leo, Kyle,Peter the Bradily key brothers AKA my naebers. They're good at surfing. There about the same level as each other. I don't have anything else to say about them. Connor can ride 9 foot waves. Hes better than some of the adults, well most of them.
By Bryce 2017 698 words.
Hi Bryce, I really enjoyed reading your story about surfing and your friends. Surfing is a really great sport. It keeps you fit and healthy.
ReplyDeleteHi Bryce, Surfing sound like it is really fun, and great exercise.
ReplyDeleteI have never surfed but reading your story, sure makes me want to try.
Good writing B-man. Your sure have learnt a lot about surfing. I bet you could teach me a thing or two about it. 'The thirds' sounds like a salty scary place. You will have to show me where it is, so I never go there! Glad you are getting our there in the sea and fresh air, having loads of fun.
ReplyDeleteno thank you
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